What to do in Las Vegas; the Neon Museum

Last week, I went on a whistlestop US trip for work, taking in Palo Alto and 40 hours in Las Vegas. Las Vegas was everything I thought it would be; a gaudy trinket of a city that doesn't stop drinking, or stomping through the hotel lobby to find another slot machine. I have a real thing right now about old fairground signs so a mere $20 cab ride out of town to check out the Neon Museum was a must. 

Sin City has been a draw for America's pleasure seekers for decades, and this museum is a collection, displayed in a pleasingly junky way in a plain yard, of fluoro casino or hotel displays from the old days.

You know, when Sinatra ruled the roost and Howard Hughes, for whom the term "reclusive billionaire" was probably invented, bought a sparkling light-up shoe because he thought it was spying on him (true story; the museum owns the high heel and it wasn't).

For only $18, you buy an hour's worth of time in the yard, with an excellent tour guide who took us through everything Vegas, including the social history of the city, like when the Moulin Rouge show helped break down racial segregation. 

The stories were beautiful but the signs were better, from enormous big birds advertising dry cleaners to long-closed casinos and hotels.

My only tip; if you go anytime from April to October, take a hat. It was roasting, roasting, roasting, and my motley crew of pale Europeans suffered in the sun. 

This Must Be The Place

London things I've done recently you might want to do: 

We celebrated the first properly sunny day in London in, oh, forever, with a big ramble on the Heath right past Erno Goldfinger's modernist house. As there's also an exhibition on there right now ('This Must Be The Place') about the utopian blueprint for an ideal home, it seemed a good time to book tickets for one of their Thursday lates; "party like a champagne socialist", as the National Trust website says, then explore the house at night. 

This year's summer drink is going to be Aperol Spritz, a mix of prosecco and bitter aperitif which reminds me of recent jaunts to Copenhagen and the snowy Salzburg mountains. My Spritz here is from Ombra, a nice little bar in Hackney/Bethnal Green right opposite my new favourite breakfast spot, Hackney Bureau, which dishes up a fine breakfast taco with homemade chorizo, scrambled eggs and scorched tortilla.

After my gold lame "mug me, mug me" American Apparel laptop bag finally gave up the ghost, I've bought this canvas and bright pink leather Gap tote to replace it and wear with my navy NW3 trench.

A lazy Easter weekend was mostly (no joke) spent watching Hunderby, Julia Davis' brilliant and surreal take on Rebecca, my favourite Du Maurier story. When I wasn't cracking up over that, I was hero-worshipping Bowie at the V&A's necessarily selective (wot, no Let's Dance era? no Nile Rodgers?) but very good exhibition on his influences, costumes, stage design, lyrics and collaborations. 

#WOW2013

On Sunday, I took part in the Southbank Centre's Women of the World festival as a guest mentor. It's an annual event with talks, debates, gigs and all sorts, including a speed mentoring session where, every 15 minutes, mentees swapped around to get a different take on their particular issue. From the Venezuelan economist who moved to the UK as a single mum to the Australian corporate lawyer keen to set up a programme to support women in her male-dominated industry, it was an inspiring array to choose from, and I think I got just as much out of it as they hopefully did. 

I love my job and I've learnt a huge amount in the last few years (not least what I'm capable of) but, like everyone else, occasionally I struggle with the choices I make; taking part in this event was a great reminder that nearly every person (not just women) has those moments sometimes, and sharing issues makes them easier to solve. 

It was especially cool to see so many young women taking part in debates and getting feminist nailwraps from ArtsAdmin (check out my Guerrilla Girls tweeting finger above) who had everyone from Lena Dunham to Angela Davis on their stickers. 

Mentoring was such a high that I've signed up for the Fawcett Society's East London mentoring scheme  - here's hoping I get accepted and matched with someone I can swap ideas and solve problems with.

Things to do in Copenhagen.

One of my favourite people, the ace Fiona, moved to Copenhagen last year and has never been happier.  I went over there last week with the equally ace Isabelle and my best friend Helen, who works in the city part-time. God, it was good. Four days of constant cycling, coffee and cake on the hour every hour in an idyllically beautiful city, with huge chats about, y'know, ~life~ with three cool, inspiring women. 

Lush architecture + a million bikes

On your bike

Although I have a beautiful bicycle in London, I'm what you might call a fairweather cyclist, mainly because cycling here terrifies me. It's like cars rule the road and bikes are merely tolerated. It's completely topsy-turvy in Copenhagen; I'm not sure whether that's because of the tiny size of the city (there are only 6 million Danes full stop), because of the constant cycle lanes and priority given to those in it, or because nearly everyone cycles, even car drivers. Whatever. It's the best way to get around and we hired our cruisers from Baisikeli. 

Leave your heels at home

Perhaps it's just another example of that famous Scandi style, but, my god, the Copenhipsters can dress. It's brilliantly effortless and cosy; simple pieces, with very little skin showing, and plenty of jeans paired with flat ankle boots or trainers (for the cycling). We liked the clothes here;

Acne Archive - from crazy leather dresses to jeans, treasure trove of past season Acne at good prices
Carmen - handpicked vintage, with old silk kimonos and designer goodies like Bally loafer heels
Genbrug - packed secondhand store with 50s, 60s, 70s and 80s sections. Isabelle bought an amazing red silk full-length jumpsuit with hip ruching here. Cor.
Henrik Vibskov - take the ace stock and cool look of a London store (Vibskov, Peter Jensen, beaut accessories) and replace their scary assistants with, y'know, nice people.
Ladyfingers - cute design store on a Norrebro street packed with goodness, from Coffee Collective to a restaurant specialising in porridge. This place does unusual jewellery made in their inhouse workshop.
Samsoe Samsoe - cool boutiques stocking men and women's clothes.

Prints at Girlie Hurley

There's also a huge amount of homeware stores, whether design or vintage, especially in Vesterbro, where we stayed. A few favourites;

Brunn's Indretning - Midcentury furniture, including G-Plan sideboards and Sixties lights
Dannebrog Antik - The best on a street (Istegarde) with heavily competition. Teak and leather Fifties chairs to old glassware
Girlie Hurly - Cute little design store with prints, printed porcelain storage and fairy lights

Design goodies at Hay

Hay - From hand-sewn quilts in bright colours to rose gold wire frames, simply beautiful stuff
Tiger - I defy anyone to walk through this shop and not come out the other side with some cheap-as-chips nonsense. They sell neon pink gaffer tape. I will say no more.

Forgot to get the name of this big secondhand shop on the road to Norrebro

(Be warned, everything's shut on Sundays)

And your babies outside

Something that surprised me about shopping is that it's quite normal for Danes to leave their babies sleeping in their prams outside shops (also; everyone is married with children, even if they're 24. Danes tend to start their families young). 

Srs brunch at Bang and Jensen

When you're recovered from the sheer level of trust involved here,  try a Danish brunch. They're yowsers; a one-price plate of yoghurt, fresh fruit, poached eggs and rye bread, with extras (depending on the restaurant) from croissants to pancakes, salami or homemade hummus. As it's so pricey there, we tended to brunch at 11, munch cake in the afternoon and then eat properly again at dinner. Our favourites were;

Bang & Jensen - enormous brunch, many pictures of man with pipe on wall, cool bar at night
Lyst - I liked their quirky decor, but liked their mint and lime fizzy drink even more
Dyrhaven - still missing their rye bread, potato and crispy onion smorrebrod

Bring your wallet, though

There's no getting around how pricey it is. Coffee's a fiver. We were there to see a friend, rather than do anything traditionally touristy and, even with keeping meals out on the cheaper side, spent a few hundred pounds in four days. Here's where we thought was worth the money;

Design Museum - a temple to sexy chairs (my kind of temple).
Assistens Cemetary - like all the best cemetaries, this is a beaut. And free (obviously). And 'houses' Kierkegaard and Hans Christian Andersen.
Mother - delicious sourdough pizzas and Aperol cocktails in the meatpacking district (felt a bit like partying in a carpark). Also do a cheese-heavy brunch.
Madklubben - veal tartare! Cheeseburgers than come with a pack of crisps! Too good.
Mesteren & Loerlingen - fun, scruffy smokey bodega with ear-busting music and packed dancefloor
Radio - this place was recommended to me by foodie Londoners but we didn't make it - a friend who went the same weekend we were there said it was great but really pricey.

For those who are more clubby than us, the meatpacking district (Kodbyen) is full of cool if identikit little bars like Jolene. Of course, a visit there wouldn't be complete without a shot of the local spirit, Fisk. It's...well, part of me wants to say it's herbal but I'm guessing if you can remember what Fisk tastes like then the night wasn't quite good enough. 

In short, it's a really amazing city. Beautiful, relaxing and full of treats for foodies, shoppers and culture lovers. If you go, make sure to let Fiona know; she really was the best tour guide possible.

Mindworms

What I love right now;

My lush new Whistles ankle boots; as my mum said, when I sent her a link, "subtle as ever, dear".

(In the background; new but less beloved stripy pumps) I'm not at all frustrated that I splashed out 150 smackers on these bad boys the very day before a weekly women's mag announced a 25% discount. No, sir.

Campus London - at work, I've taken on a side project at this seven storey building full of start ups in Old Street. It's a pretty inspiring place, rammed full of entrepreneurs who've jacked everything in, in pursuit of an idea they had once, and events on everything from networking to self-publishing to famous speakers and classes.

Eagerly waiting for the two prints I bought in Jessica Hische's typographic sale. She's hands-down my favourite designer right now. I got the Q & U as they were my favourites, and now I kind of wish I had meaningful private nicknames for those I love starting with those initials.

Lovely Zoe gifted me this mad, beautiful raven-and-worms silk scarf from Red Brick. I feel like such a ~lady~ wearing it.

Look! It's a stock market scarf! The illustrations are all hand done, and so gorgeous.

Also, I'm really enjoying Junot Diaz's short story collection This Is How You Lose Her, mostly because of the frequent Dominican slang, which means I have to keep going away to look up sucio and chochas, then returning with raised eyebrows.

I'm off to Copenhagen soon; where should I go and what should I see? All tips appreciated!

Asleep on a sunbeam

Any other Aquarians will know the score... most people are broke or detoxing or plain don't feel like partying at our January birthdays. As an ex-maker upper/"writer" of horoscopes, I'm being tongue in cheek by segmenting people by month but Aquarians are supposed to be good with computers (check), "flighty" (check) and head-in-the-clouds (yup!). 

If I'd been birthday daydreaming, I guess I'd have conjured up what I got; a boozy night out, before a super-snowy weekend with the best brunches with my favourite people, like battling through Central London to find cosiness and, more importantly, marmalade and champagne cocktails at Riding House cafe, or garlic kale and gin fizzes at Mr Buckley's. 

The School of Life's session on the creative power of daydreaming with Tony Buzan was a little wasted (on me) as I'm a long-term believer that drifting off's a good way to work through all those weird thoughts... I really recommend their Sunday sessions; they might sound a little hippie dippy but, not only do you get an hour or so of food for thought in the form of lectures (with Q&A) from subject experts on everything from whether relationships are necessary to how to find your perfect job, but there's also a singsong element. On my birthday weekend, the hall belted out "Lucy In The Sky with Diamonds" and "Daydream Believer"; London seems a little less harsh when 200 people lose their nerves and shout along to the chorus. 

My pictures of Tony's magnificent arm gestures and mind map imagery turned out kind of fuzzy so here's the complimentary "stream of consciousness" biscuits we got afterwards; I have no idea what that phrase means, but they were definitely pretty cute. 

Also cute; my beautiful birthday neon necklace from John and Pearl, with a ticket to Primavera Festival tucked inside the card. Jesus and Mary Chain, Fiona Apple, Breeders performing Last Splash, The Knife, Hot Chip, My Bloody Valentine, Grizzly Bear....plus tapas. YES. 

Rachel Zeffira's "Here On In"

Prim but swoony voice + instrospective song + Broadcast vibe?



I love this song from classic musician former Cat's Eye (underrated band) Rachel Zeffira, and looking forward to hearing her sing it live at Union Chapel in a few months.